Over the weekend I introduced the Swellegant family of patina products to our array of mixed media products at B'sue Boutiques
Again, Swellegant is the brainchild of polymer clay artist, Christi Friesen. I found myself quickly engrossed in this line's possibilities for use on metal. It is based on Sculpt Nouveau patina products, which in themselves have a very wide use, but the most likely one is as a metal colorant.
You may have had a look at the line on our website and thought, sheesh, I don't know which goes with what, not sure I want to buy into that whole line, how is it different from paint, from alcohol inks, stuff I might already have?
First of all, as far as paint goes: it's not your everyday type metal paint. It's paint that has metal in it, bound with a binder. The finish becomes stronger the more layers of the paint that are applied. We recommend you do thin layers, so you don't obscure the details of the surface you are working on.
Also, we recommend you DAB, not brush, the product. Let the layers dry a bit between, if you are simply using the paints to change up metal color, and three coats is optimimum.
Do NOT let the paint dry if you want to add patinas or dye oxides. Wet paint is a bit of a catalyst IF you want the patina finishes over it.
The patinas are pretty much traditional in nature. They are acidic, smell sort of like vinegar and can irritate skin, so gloves are advised and use extra care it doesn't get in your eyes.
The dye oxides are a bit like alcohol inks, and you do need to heat set them on metal. But, they are a better quality, have better clarity, and they do not just lay on the surface of the metal like inks do. They bond with the metal. '
BTW: did I mention? GLOVES GLOVES GLOVES. Use GLOVES when you work with any of the components of the Swellegant line. Keep wet wipes handy. Soap and water clean up, but the dyes will take time to remove if you get them on your skin...so. Don't do that!
Anyway! You're probably thinking, I'd love to have that whole line, but just like Gilder's paste, I really can only afford to try a few colors at a time. Where do I start?
We've offered the Swellegant line in single bottles so that you CAN just pick and choose a few things to play around with, before you make the 'big' commitment. I'd recommend that you select a metal coating, a patina, and a dye oxide. Three things that complement each other, and I'll help you out with that, too....just read on.
If you don't think you'll be into the dye oxides or metal coatings, then buy one or all three of the patinas. They work on raw brass as well as plating, especially the rusty black and chocolate ox brass we offer. They are also inexpensive, only 6.00 a bottle. If you sponge them on, they will go a long way and you'll get a lot of use for a small investment. I love them all, but being honest, TIFFANY GREEN/RUST speaks to me the most....personally.
Here are some tried and true combinations for Swellegant:
BRONZE metal coating, TIFFANY GREEN/RUST patina, SUN YELLOW dye oxide
BRONZE metal coating, GOLD-GREEN/VERDIGRIS patina, TANGERINE dye oxide
SILVER metal coating, DARKENING PATINA, COFFEE dye oxide this one really intrigues me!
COPPER metal coating, GOLD-GREEN/VERDIGRIS patina, KELLY GREEN dye oxide
SILVER metal coating, DARKENING PATINA, Indigo dye oxide this is another combo I'd use alot
BRONZE metal coating, GOLD-GREEN /VERDIGRIS patina, MILK WHITE dye oxide sort of a whitewashed metallic effect!
BRASS metal coating, DARKENING patina, AQUA GREEN dye oxide
SILVER metal coating, DARKENING patina, CARIBBEAN BLUE dye oxide
BRASS metal coating, DARKENING patina, BLOOD RED dye oxide
BRASS metal coating, TIFFANY GREEN/RUST patina, TANGERINE dye oxide I love the look of this one, too!
IRON metal coating, TIFFANY GREEN/RUST patina, SPRUCE GREEN dye oxide....a very different take on a black finish for sure.
BRONZE metal coating, TIFFANCY GREEN/RUST patina, CHARCOAL BLACK dye oxide
IRON metal coating, TIFFANY GREEN/RUST patina, BLOOD RED dye oxide
COPPER metal coating, DARKENING patina, KELLY GREEN dye oxide this will give you a copper patina look you will love.
Thanks to Christi Friesen who offered the color combo suggestions.
Don't forget, it's best practice to seal your work after you let it fully cure 48-72 hours. Cure time will vary according to your workspace temperature and humidity level where you are.
You can use the Color Sealant made for Swellegant, but remember...brush it on in very sparing coats.
I've found that Krylon matte acrylic spray lacquer also works very well. Again, do two lightly misted coats with cure time in between. I would imagine their satin finish as well as glossy would also work.
There are probably any number of other products that will also work, but I have not experimented yet. I do know that ICE RESIN works well over well-cured paint---very well cured! If you want to try it, my guess is it may well be incredible. But remember, with ANY resin product, whatever you put it over must be DRY AS A BONE. Resin will not cure over anything that has water moisture in it.
But as far as Swellegant goes, you just can't wreck it if you follow the simple rules laid out in my earlier post. You can always add color, change it up, make it more and more interesting. And don't forget: you can use Swellegant on polymer clay, ceramic, glass, wood, paper, foam....just about anything.....as well as metal!
Feel free to share any Swellegant discoveries or observations with us at B'sue Boutiques Creative Group or at Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100001254562143