Jewelry Making Outside The Box

Inspiration......Five and Dime Style, Bakelite, and Polymer Clay

Inspiration comes from so many places.  

As far as polymer clay is concerned, however, I took my initial cues from THE BAKELITE JEWELRY BOOK by Davidov-Dawes......came out early 90's.  There have been MANY since.   This is the OLD Five and Dime Style jewelry AT ITS BEST.

I have always been a big fan of 20th century plastic jewelry; composition, celluloid, bakelite, hard plastic, lucite.    Looking at this book, however, my creative heart lept up and cried!  FIMO!   Let me try stuff like this in FIMO......I think I can, I think I can.....

I think YOU can, too....and should.   First, to inspire:

Here's a photo I found at Pinterest the other day; it's a very valuable and rare red bakelite heart and key brooch:

Here are some of the ways you know a piece like this is bakelite....first the FEEL of it, which of course since we only have a picture, you can't do...but bakelite is thick, chunky, slick.   When you briskly rub it with your thumb, your thumb will smell like formaldehyde.

All findings would be inlaid (as you can see, they are).  Never glued on.   Also, you can see the material is not molded, but carved.  Inside that keyhole you would see marks from carving.   If you see mold lines, I'll lay you odds it's not gonna be bakelite.   Can you see the small dark spot on the key part?  That would be from the inlay of the pinback on the other side (which of course we can't see here.)

You can do this, and better, with polymer clay.  You could try to totally reprise the piece in a bright red, and then get the gloss by  buffing on a muslin wheel---or other methods as described in the polymer clay instruction books.

Better yet....be inspired.  Take the shape, the feel, the vibe....and bring the Five and Dime nature of this brooch forward to 2012.  How would you do it?

Here are some bakelite (bakelite being a phenolic resin that also contained wood filler) and wood composition  pieces that I own:

The yellow flowers brooch is a two part brooch and is a better piece.  It's the only one of the better pieces I had, back when I was dealing in bakelite jewelry, that I ever kept!   Sigh....but anyway:   The back (not shown) is an ebony black ring that is screwed or sort of even riveted to the back.   Not REALLY riveted...you wouldn't want to do that, it would crack.  But looks like that sort of thing.   The bottom piece is an Art Deco dress clip with inlaid brass wire, it is not a highly collectable piece but still very very nice in the translucent swirly root beer color.  

The top piece is not bakelite, but carved wooden cherries on a composition leaf base, strung with the same sort of string that so often, was used to affix the bakelite carved cherries to a 'log' base, on the cherries brooches, which are very desirable.  The wear is to be expected; many of these pieces have wear as they were INDEED *real* Five and Dime Style jewelry from back in the day, not made from high-end materials.

About 12-13 years ago I made my own version of the cherries brooch.  It is far from perfect as a freshman endeavor....but I did love it and wear it often:

I used a form of craft wire called Twisteez for the cherries, in fact I'm working on getting that for the website again.   It's the closest thing to old phone wire that works, unless you want to use coated string which is virtually unavailable, and really, it didn't endure well, then....and it won't now.

Originally the piece had leaves, I kept the last one that fell off ( I wore this ALOT!!)  and the one you're seeing here flipped over when I made the photo, so that's the back.   Doesn't look so good.  See my holes?   We want to ream out our holes nicely whether working in clay, ceramic, whatever.   I am still working on getting that better and better.  I love to see a good, round, clean hole in clay/ceramic.

I do like how the bow part came out!   I think the piece was glazed with Fimo Lak, which I used to use back then.   The Sculpey finishes work as nicely and are less toxic.  You could use a light coat of resin, too, but you'd have to be careful....you might have some dripping off the round bead.

Here is a closer look at the vintage 30's wood cherries pin:

This gives you a real nice idea of how it was made, and how you might try it...in clay...and refine it. The little cherries are actually on old brass headpins!  

Here is another cool idea made of vintage hard plastic buttons---probably 50's, but could be older:

Wait til I show you the back, to see how it is composed:

Just wire strands, looped through the buttons, then bunched, and the bunch wound.   Reminds me a lot of how I made this brooch a little while back:

Anyway.....Five and Dime Style ROCKS, and it's the base inspiration for everything I have ever made as a jewelry designer. 

It comes from my love of old things, my days in the trade as an antiques dealer specializing in vintage jewelry.   The thrill of the hunt and the big score were BIG rushes, I won't lie to you!

But the inspiration of holding a piece of old bakelite in your hand and thinking....now how does this translate to mixed media?  surpasses it all a HUNDREDFOLD.

We were just all made to create.  That's what B'sue Boutiques is all about!

So....take it to the next level....take it to the limit.   Where will YOU go with this?

PS....here's a newspaper post about a big bakelite auction....you might find it interesting:

http://latimesblogs.latimes.com/alltherage/2009/12/bonhams-butterfields-auctions-vintage-bakelite-jewelry-draft.html

 

My Experiments with Crystal Clay/Made in India Lakh Bangles

I'm a big lover of *polymer* clay.  I love it because the possibilities are endless, anyone can use it---if you played with clay as a kid, you can crack open a pack, condition it and have some fun RIGHT NOW.   It's also forgiving and cheap.  

Those are three big criteria for today's busy crafter:  instant gratification, hard to mess up, doesn't cost much.   All of that....

And it's still a highly respected art medium.  Yes!

A friend mentioned a few weeks back that Crystal Clay, something I'd sampled a number of months ago, was gaining in popularity and deserved a second look.  

Crystal Clay is a two part RESIN clay that comes in a decent variety of colors.  It's easily mixed and can be, according to the manufacturer, formed into any shape.  You simply pinch off equal parts of #A clay and #B clay, included in the mini kit (see below), condition them and blend them together.   You have about 60-90 minutes working time before it will begin to set up.   The product will be fully cured in 12-24 hours, depending how thick your project is.  *There is no baking.*

The mini kit is sweet:   Open it, and you have pretty much everything you need to start having fun.  You'll get 50g of clay (it's enough to make several bezels as well as coat a bangle, or a bunch of small beads) , a pair of vinyl gloves (essential) a beeswax dop stick for picking up stones and itty-bits, and even a little bag of SWA (Swarovski)  stones (36 teensy ones)....as well as full directions.

All you need is a flat surface....and maybe some more of your own itty-bits and rhinestones .....and you're good to go.

AND....it's MADE IN THE USA.  

The pix on the box are inspiring, but most of all, this product (as well as numerous others very much like it, currently on the market---just like polymer clay, you can take your pick which one you like best!) reminds me SO MUCH of vintage low-end 60's resin inlaid jewelry made in India. 

Perhaps you remember this type of vintage jewelry.    It's called lahk, or lac jewelry, and it was mostly inlaid with little seed beads and tiny mirrors as well as tiny rows of fused beaded plastic chain.    This jewelry is still made today, but it's far more glitzy and sophisticated.

Here's a link where you can go and check out new lahk, or lac jewelry bangles, via a very active Ebay seller:

Lahk Bangles from Ebay Seller, Sushila-Art

And, if you have a bit more time, a link to a brief YouTube presentation on the value of bangle bracelets in East Indian culture.   You'll see quite a number of lakh style bangles.

Lahk Bangles Video

Back in the late 60's and early 70's, Indian lahk bangles, pendants, dangly earrings, ornaments, dresser boxes, even mirrors and key chains! were everywhere.  I've dug through my vintage jewelry chests for quite some time this morning looking for the bangle I know I still have.....but it was too elusive to find to photograph....sigh!

I was always intrigued with the technique of setting little objects into whatever that STUFF was---lahk, or a type of resin!---and making my own jewelry.

The blinged out look on the box might also make vintage afficionados think of the glitzy resin inlaid jewelry made by companies such as WEISS back in the 50's.  I remember when you used to be able to pick up the blingy inlaid Weiss earrings for 5.00 or less, and the clamper bracelets for 20.00.  Those were the days, my friend!

Anyway....with Crystal Clay, there is a definite vintage vibe going on here.   In the long run, however, the texture of the cured clay is totally more like Lahk than slick resin like was used in the 50's domestically made jewelry.

With Crystal Clay, this can be achieved....a new coup for those who like to collect itty bits like buttons, broken shards, ball and shard glitter, seed beads, and rhinestones----as shown in the photo.   These clays are highly promoted as vehicles for Swarovski stones.

So....without further a-do, I 'clayed around' with this stuff last night and here's what happened:

More than finessing the stuff----which will definitely come later!  I wanted to see how it responds, ease of use, how it would work with disparate itty bits and how the different itty bits set up. 

1.  Mixing the clay is easy, just be sure you eyeball equal parts.  You won't want to consciously use more of part A with part B, or vice-versa....it won't set up.  Just like all other Resinology....part A and part B need to be equal.  

2.  You MUST use the gloves in the kit or if you would rather, grab a tight pair of nitrile gloves.  Next time I work with this stuff, I'm going to opt for the tight nitrile gloves, I think I would have had an easier time.   

      The product is a bit tacky and the color will leach out all over the gloves....so where ever you decide to work with it, be sure you don't get it on anything you don't want it on.     You will definitely only be able to work with one color at a time, unless of course you figure out a plan and swap out gloves.

3.   This product works best, IMHO, in a form of some kind, like a bezel.   As the photos on the instructions show, you can make cool little studded beads with them.   I would advise that you learn to fill bezels and level them first.  It's not terribly difficult, but it's a bit trickier than using polymer clay.    Better that you get a good feel for how much to put in the bezel and how to set materials into it.   As you can see from the photo, the look is rather like the designer-crude old 60's Made in India lahk pieces---even down to the turquoise color of the clay---but you might want to set a pattern and go for a really professional look.

   In that case, buy several packages and devote the first package to the learning process.   I can't say I am satisfied with what I made, but I DID learn a bunch from working with it, and how I'll proceed next time out.

4.  Another thing to watch for:  don't get any residual glue in filigree, or on the backs of your bezels as you will definitely be spending some time cleaning it off.  I'd recommend softening with goo-gone, then peeling off, picking off, or filing off.   UGH.  I hate clean-up.

    If you learn to be neat, however, it won't be an issue.  For me, it may be TWO boxes of the product before I get 'neat' down.   Like I say, the stuff is tacky.

5.  Re: setting stones and itty bits:  You need to push them down, level, into the stuff.   Not part way.....all the way to the top edge of the stone, bead, doo-dad, itty bit, you're using.   You also might want to plan a pattern, first.  I didn't, as I was more interested in the experimental side of things.   But having a plan before mixing this stuff up (given it has a limited play time) will be important for best success.

   Use the little beeswax applicator/dop stick, you will be REALLY glad for it.  I love that it's included in the kit, it REALLY helped. 

I'm happy to say that when I checked my experiments this morning, they were nicely cured.

Our first shipments of Crystal Clay have arrived and more are on their way.   For now, you will find it in the Polymer Clay, Polymer Clay Tools section at B'sue Boutiques   Soon, I will have it in its own section. 

You should be able to colorize white resin clay by dotting with colored pens.    Probably alcohol ink would be a good vehicle.   As the clay is resin, water-based color would not be the way to go.

Feel free to comment here, about YOUR findings!

 

Ice Resin Collage Bezel Necklace...You Can Do It, Too!

I poured a few backless bezels the other week (using ICE resin, of course!!) and was fiddling around with them on my workbench.

I love to do a collage, dump in some pearlies, even jumps or tiny bits and flecks of copper metal that I save from projects.   If you cut a piece of light gauge copper metal very narrowly, it will make the coolest little spiral.

Did you know that?

Okay....maybe that's another blog post!

ANYWAY....I decided to apply this one with my little flying bee in it, to a Rusty Black Patina luggage tag finding (check out the RB section at B'sue Boutiques for over 150 REALLY COOL FINDINGS! http://www.bsueboutiques.com/rusty_black_patina.shtml

Then I fiddled around a bit more, to come up with an interesting neckline treatment.

Here it is!

The bezel is glued to the pendant tag, just allowing some of the color and detail to show.  

On these collage bezels, I don't always really care if ALL of the material I throw into the bezel gets totally covered.   A bit sticking up is kind of cool.....sort of as if drifting in water.

I wrapped the bezel when the glue cured (usually you need a good 12-24 hours) with narrow variegated hand-dyed gypsy ribbon.   Find all sorts of cool fibers at B'sue Boutiques right here:

http://www.bsueboutiques.com/silk_velvet_ribbon.shtml

Then I applied 2mm vintage crystal rhinestone chain in raw brass cups, unplated.   This is a little tricky, you have to apply the glue narrowly with a toothpick, then push it into place....and you also have to be sure you cut JUST enough!

When that set up, I found it necessary to drill a hole on the one shoulder of the tag, so that I could use a jump properly.   I also finished it with an eyelet rivet.   I like to finish off my drill holes with an eyelet rivet when it's possible.  ;-)

Then I worked the neckline.   That was a lot of playing around.  The brass ox cable chain on the one side is actually a 7 inch charm bracelet blank that I just looped through and pulled up, and connected.

This piece has a bazillion little tiny beaded dangles, but they are fast and easy to make.   Just put on an old movie or documentary that you like, and lose yourself in it while you do it.  Yesterday they had a 3 or 4 part documentary on the history of Hollywood and the movies on TCM.  I watched that while I made this piece and time passed quickly!

The polymer clay beads are spiral beads that I like to make in batches.  It's time to make another batch!   Of all the stuff I do, I think I like making polymer clay organic-style beads the most!

The clasp?  Hmmm.  We have some sort of like this at the site, or you could make one w wire but to be honest...true confessions!   I think this came from....Michael's....I will allow myself to buy beads there and Susan Lenhart Kazmer's Industrial Chic line.   In fact, I have collected most of the styles in that line.   I know, they are made in China, but there are a few things made there that are better and better quality.   These bits are very nice.   I'd carry them but they are Michael's exclusives.

So you have my permission to go there and buy them after you've shopped out B'sue Boutiques

LOL

Here's a closeup of the focal:

There are a lot of techniques employed in this piece, so if you were to make it start to finish, it would take you a long time.  Here is how I handle that:

Take a session just to prepare text for resin inlay, then have a bunch ready.

Take a session just to build and inlay Ice Resin collage bezels and components.

Take a session and make a bunch of polymer clay beads.

Take a session and make a whole bunch of little beady dangles.

Take a session and distress a bunch of metal (although this goes really fast and you might want to do it as-need, since you may want to distress alot...or very little.   Just depends!)

Here is a video on how to do it, in case you missed the link a few days ago:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rL37L3NGj4I

Take a session and order your fave basic components from your fave basic suppliers, like us...I hope!

All you need are some good movies on the TV, or some great music on your player or IPOD.  Shut off the computer, let your machine pick up the phone messages, and let it be YOUR time.

Then you will have all this cool stuff made and ready when inspiration strikes! 

AND....your lovely designs will go together like KISMET!  It was JUST meant to be!

Nunn Design Sealant, Staz-On Ink, And A Brass Blank

Nunn Design Sealant is a resinous top coat finish that presents some very interesting possibilities for mixed media artists.

 

It's really great over Staz-On black ink, stamped over a brass blank:

Staz-On Black Ink

Here's an example of a piece I made, just goofing around with samples that had arrived:

I think there are some tremendous design possibilities here.   This is a raw brass blank that I torched a bit, to add a little toasty patina.   Then I stamped it with a rubber stamp from my collection, using the Staz-On.    I let it dry thoroughly, then I coated it with the Nunn Sealant.   I let it cure about 24 hours....good to go.   SO EASY.   And pretty fast!

I'm not sure how other inks will work with Nunn, but if you wanted a little color, you could paint the blank first, let dry, then stamp, then seal.

I have a bunch of great looking drilled-top blanks at B'sue Boutiques

You'll find them all right here:

http://www.bsueboutiques.com/drilled_blanks.shtml

 Nunn Sealant is now for sale at B'sue Boutiques as well:

http://www.bsueboutiques.com/item/Nunn-Design-Sealant-8291

The bottle is two ounces;  we can ship it anywhere as it is not flammable.  The manufacturer says it is very low toxicity, so  clean up well and keep it off your skin....and you should be okay.   Have fun!

My Experiments with Gel Du Soleil Resin

Of late more and more of my customers at B'sue Boutiques have asked me if I would carry Gel du Soleil resin.

I always want to please!  But since we already have Diamond Glaze and ICE resin, I didn't get why it should be necessary to add this product  to our mixed media line up.   ICE is the bomb and what I swear by; DG has its applications.

But I was told that the reason to carry this rather expensive little bottle of resin is its fast-curing properties.

Okay, now you have my attention.   I decided to get a small inventory and try the stuff.

My thought was that it might come in handy for healing an error made with ICE when time was short.   You can always heal any boo-boo made with ICE *with* ICE---and I do think that's preferable!

But for ICE, the cure is a good 12 hours to three days.

Sometimes you just don't have 12 hours to three days to heal a resin boo-boo.

I made a lovely pocket watch collage pendant some time ago with layered elements and Ice Resin.  But, I was not careful enough with the cure and had put a finger print on it....sigh.  

Gel du Soleil requires either a UV lamp OR strong, direct sunlight.   Today we had plenty of that, so I went out on the deck to give it a go.

I can report sweet success.    It works just fine over fully cured Ice Resin.

I also decided to try it over some cured Diamond Glaze.

 I had these little discs I'd painted, added the bee stampings, and had DG'd over them.   I dunno what I'm going to make from them yet, possibly charms on a big charm bracelet with lots of baubles.  Or maybe earrings.  

The photo is not great, but....again....success.  Gel du Soleil works great over cured Diamond Glaze, too!

Here are my further findings:

You will not want to do a whole deep bezel with this stuff.   There are literally drops in this little bottle.   And it costs 8.95.   It says you can do ten bezels but I have to wonder about that.  I healed the top bezel with a very thin coat, and I did the bee discs above with a very thin coat, and the bottle is already about 1/3 used up.

It DOES cure quickly.  SO quickly in fact, that you will NOT want to be applying it outside in direct sunlight as it will gum up immediately and turn into a sickening mess.   I experienced this as I thought I would just work outside in the sunlight.  Don't do that.

So do it inside, then take it outside to cure in the warmest, most direct sunlight possible.

In about ten minutes, it will be cured to light touch.   In an hour, rock-hard, and crystal-clear.

While Ice Resin has its own very resin-y unique 'stank', I must say the smell of Gel is far more offensive and a bit noxious.     Also, you can smell it for  some time after it's cured and hard.  The aroma does fade in time, but at first it's a bit strong.  

This product is NOT non-toxic.

Clean up is easy.  ;-)  YAY

The quick fix concept is one that will keep this product in my workshop on a constant basis.    Since I have a UV lamp, it will be fine, even in winter.   The idea of being able to fix a mistake this quickly is quite attractive and worth the expense of the product.   

There is another similar product, Magic Glos.   It costs a tad bit more but you also get more, too.  My results with Magic were not that good, however.   Gel du Soleil wins this round.  ;-)

 

 

Adding Color to ICE Resin

This morning I was asked at Facebook about adding colors to ICE resin.

Of course, the authority is the book EXPLORE, CREATE, RESINATE written by Jen Cushman.

Jen remarks in Chapter Six  of the book that there are colorants on the market that have been developed JUST FOR use in resin.  I would cite for example, the epoxy-resin enamelled pieces of jewelry you buy in the mall--that enamel is just a form of resin with a colorant in it.

Of course, that's not ICE resin, and those commercial colorants are really not necessary for you to purchase.  Some of them can be pricey.   You probably already have things in your workshop that will work just fine!

Susan Lenart Kazmer, the developer of ICE resin, found  that a cool way to add color and vibe to your resin creations is a brisk raid of your kitchen spice cabinet!  Try some paprika, pepper, tumeric, curry.....go for it.  See what happens!

Jen Cushman likes the addition of Ranger PERFECT PEARLS.  I have not tried this yet, but it's my next resin adventure.  I have a fine stock of them in my workshop, and we will offer them at B'sue Boutiques very soon.    These have a resin binder built into them, so they are PERFECT for ICE resin.

You can also try mixing in MICA powders like Pearl-Ex, which we do carry in metallics and pearl.

Another way to get color into your ICE resin is by using artist-grade oil paints.   Simply use the tip of a toothpick and scrap a teensy bit of oil paint---because a little goes a LONG way--off the end of the tube and mix into the same measuring cup as the mixed resin.   Swirl the toothpick around into the resin, which will release the color. 

Continue mixing gently to blend, with your craft stick.

If you want to get really wild and crazy, introduce two colors, or a color and Pearl-Ex, and see what happens.   Don't try this, though, til you get comfortable mixing one color and using it.

After you blend in color, allow the resin to rest five minutes and then start using it, just the same way you would with clear resin.

NOTE:   Some have used acrylics but the results can be quite uneven.    ICE is great over dry, fully cured painted surfaces in the clear form...but since so much of this media is water-based, it would be a poor thing to add to ICE resin.   In fact, it might be disastrous.   I'd avoid that.

Let us know how it goes!   Feel free to upload pix of your discoveries to the B'sue Boutiques Facebook Fan Page   Don't forget, we are carrying the plunger now for those who are new to resin and afraid of mixing ratios.   With the plunger, you get the perfect mix EVERY TIME.

Find the plunger here:  http://www.bsueboutiques.com/shop/index.php?keywords=plunger

How Did You Do That? How Can I Do That?

Yesterday I put a photo on Facebook of a Honeysuckle pink cuff I'd finished. 

Wanna see?

Here is a side view for you, too:

How did I do it?  I mixed the paint and painted the cuff  (this one is my fave, found here: http://www.bsueboutiques.com/item/Dimpled-Raw-Brass-Ornamental-Cuff-6493

I also painted the flowers at the same time.   They were raw brass.   We have a nice selection of them found here:  http://www.bsueboutiques.com/metal_roses_flowers_leaves.shtml

How did I mix the paint? 

Honeysuckle Pink video

I glazed the cuff with resin:

Mixing Ice Resin

This  might help you with some alternative colorizing and resin methods:

Lumiere Paints, Diamond Glaze

And basic colorization and resin finish on brass components:

Colorization of Brass Stampings

Colorization of Brass Stampings....More Tips!

Anything you need to know is covered in my FREE YouTube instruction videos.  I could just TELL you here:   but I don't know....isn't it better to SHOW you?

So far we have 33 videos up and more to come.   Is there something you'd like me to demonstrate in a video?   Let me know.   We'll see what we can do!

We also have Guest Teacher tutorials on the website.  Find them here:  Project Ideas

 

The Meep Report: What a Cat Thinks of ICE Resin

As a cat, I find the business of jewelry craft quite curious.

I see B'sue fiddling around in her workshop all the time.   Sometimes I come and fiddle around, too.

It's most gratifying for me, as a cat, to sit in a bowl of hard old patina gingerbread brass while she toils away.   Usually she will turn around and search for fifteen minutes for the very parts I'm sitting on.   It drives her out of her mind.   I get off on that.

It's especially satisfying to sit and watch her when she doesn't know I am there.   This way, when she turns around, I can freak her out.   Has B'sue ever told you about her anxiety disorder?   I love augmenting it, then I get to watch her leap out of her skin and crack open the bottle of Xanax she keeps under the counter.

She doesn't know I know it's there.   I'm a thief, too.   That bottle might have to become my next kitty toy.

Yesterday, B'sue braved the basement workshop to pour resin bezels for her video this afternoon.   I was there, hoping to put enough cat hair in the air to add a few of my own inclusions to her compositions.

But I have to tell you:   Jordan was helping B'sue and I overheard her saying all this great stuff about ICE brand resin and how much she loves using it.

So I'll pass a little of that info along to you, you might like to pick up a kit at B'sue Boutiques.

Here is a picture of me with the product.  It comes in two bottles, you have to mix it carefully.   I love to come around when she's mixing it and bump her.

Ice Resin is a non-yellowing, jeweler's grade, crystal clear finish that is PURRFECT  for so many applications.  Most people like to put stuff in bezels and pour it over the stuff they put in the bezels.

As I mentioned:  you have to mix it properly and you have to let it cure.  Hmmm....let's see, she made them last evening about 6pm our time.....if I hurry up and run down there, there might STILL be time to put a nice paw print on some of the larger, deeper ones.  

Ice Resin cures fully in three days.   Maybe I'll take a nap, I might still be able to do it later.  Nyuk, nyuk.

B'sue loves Ice Resin for coating her colorized flowers.   It cures hard as glass.   When she does a big batch, I always take time from my busy cat schedule to jump on the table and wipe out a few of them.   I know she always wonders why when she goes back down to the workshop, some are laying around on the floor.

Hardy har har.....well, if she'd JUST buy the cat food I like best, I might fix up my act a little bit.

Naaah.......

Anyway, here's a photo of one of the bezels she did last night, in an old pocket watch case.  I'm just a cat, I don't know a lot about art....but, I think it came out pretty good.   What do you think?

What Sort of Glue Should I Use To Make Jewelry?

That's a question that's oft debated.

If you are REPAIRING jewelry, such as re-setting rhinestones, then you want to use HYPOTUBE cement.   There is nothing better.  It won't eat the foil on your stones, and the hold is great.

We do sell it on the website at http://www.bsueboutiques.com.

Some complain that they do not like the tube on this sort of glue.  I will freely admit, you need to keep the tip clean and you need to develop a bit of a 'hand' in using it.    It's worth the trouble, because again, this is THE glue product you want for this application.

When using hypotube cement, less is more.   Don't fill the cup with glue, just apply it to the back of the stone and set.   If you fill the cup with glue, it will take a long time to set up.

IF YOU ARE MAKING JEWELRY:  For the best hold that will stand the test of time, E6000 glue is the glue of choice every time.  We carry it on the site at http://www.bsueboutiques.com, as well.   You will need to develop a bit of a technique to use it, but basicly it's very simple---I sort of like the chip and dip method, just get a little on one side of the item you are gluing and then slide it.

You do need to be careful when using these two glues, they do have noxious fumes.   Work with adequate ventilation, keep it off your hands and skin, and don't eat while you are using it.   Wash up well when you are done using it or if you have to take a bathroom break.  If you are a production artisan and use glues alot, this is more important than ever.

Another glue that works okay for some sorts of collage is Crafter's Pick Ultimate Glue, and we carry that one as well at http://www.bsueboutiques.com  This is a NON TOXIC glue and has the best hold of any non-toxic glue I have ever tried.  It takes about twice as long as E6000 to set up, however.

Other glues that work are Devcon two-part epoxies (you have to mix this one up and use it fast) and Elmer's Stix-All.   I like the Elmer's product as it is less noxious than many glues, and the hold is very tight.   But, it does not dry clear, so it will not work for every application.

A GLUE YOU SHOULD NEVER USE FOR MAKING JEWELRY is hot glue, not even the industrial-strength ones.  Hot glue expands and contracts with heat and cold, so you can imagine what might happen to your jewelry, given the test of time.    It just won't hold up.